Death, deplorable working conditions, war-stricken monuments
are all part of a sad and dreadful history that allow for Kanchanaburi (a
little known town) to go down in history books, to be included in the making of
post world war II films, to lend to thriving tourism etc.
It is also a place where the story (of many years gone by)
lies, as if cast in stone, with decaying mold all around it, in a dark, dingy
misnomer of a museum called the Jeath Museum of War history.
Brace yourselves before you go here...even though, in
appearance, it's a shack-like dilapidated structure, within its crumbling mud
walls are plastered photographs and pictures that tell stories about the
atrocities, violence and crimes committed by the Japanese forces against the
POWs during the world war. It's gruesome, shocking and ghastly articles often
times send chills down your bones. It is not something for the faint-hearted
for on these decrepit newspapers and rundown picture frames, are displayed
in-human acts of terror and treatment, of punishment and torture, or savagery
and slaughter. The treatment of thousands of POWs and locals is beyond
comprehension. So many lives lost for a bitter and indescribable cause.
Most deaths (more than 100,000) were caused during the
construction and re-construction of the Death Railway (between Thailand and
Burma), including the infamous Bridge over River Kwai. The one silver lining
(of little consequence to those who lost their lives), is the beautiful and
peacefully meandering River Kwai along the banks of which, the museum is
reconstructed. As you step out from this surreal experience, you almost
ironically need a breather from it all. The river flowing alongside offers a
calm solitude and much needed respite from thinking about the horrors and
degree of war crimes.
If you are anywhere close to the river, you cannot help
notice, what could be the most visited section of the Death Railway, the large
iron construction of the Bridge over River Kwai. The bridge was known simply as
"Bridge 277," and while the Allied forces tried to destroy the bridge
several times, it wasn't until mid-1945 that they finally managed to render the
bridge over the River Kwai in-operable.
Popularized by a novel and later an Oscar-award winning
film, the iron bridge you visit today is actually the second to span the river;
the first was made of wood and lasted less than six months. Of course, it's
partly because of this gruesome history that it's such an important World War
II monument and such a popular tourist attraction.
The lives of thousands of war prisoners (mostly British,
Dutch, Australian and American) who were victims of the Death Railway are laid
to rest here. Maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves commission, the
cemetery catalogs, via engravings on memorial plates, the deaths of young and brave
soldiers forced into labor camps to work on the bridge and the railway line to
Burma. The cemetery is very well maintained and tended to by local staff. Going
through the rows of plaques, is a sober moment well deserving of our respect
and recognition.
After all this history, death and gloom....one would imagine
the town to be anything but alive and up-beat. Well, I was amazed at the
resilience of its people. How quick they are to embrace the benefits of trade
and tourism. There are those notorious floating raftels (raft hotels) with
discos that play way into the early morning hours. If you love your sleep, make
a note to not take up a room anywhere close!
Quaint little shops and stores offer all the good eats and buys. Tourists flock to them to buy souvenirs, T-shits, music CDs, you-name-it! The Thai people once again maintain a perfect balance between respect for their history and culture, and the prospect of the future which they look forward to with great anticipation and vigor.